Sarracenia are hardy carnivorous plants native to North American wetlands. They grow tall, elegant pitchers that trap insects and naturally help control pests outdoors. These are long-lived perennials that return every year with correct care.

 Light

Full sun is absolutely required

• Minimum 6 hours direct sun
  
  

• Best performance at 8–12 hours
  
  

• Indoors = NOT recommended, except in a south-facing sunroom with additional grow lights
  
  

Symptoms of low light:

• floppy pitchers
  
  

• green/yellow color
  
  

• weak coloration
  
  

• poor growth
  
  

• pitchers don’t open properly
  
  

Water

Only pure water

• rainwater (best)
  
  

• distilled water
  
  

• reverse osmosis
  
  

Never give tap water unless confirmed under 50 ppm TDS.

Standing water is correct:

• Keep pots sitting in 1–2 inches of water spring–fall.
  
  

• In very hot weather, 2–3 inches.
  
  

Soil

Absolutely avoid normal potting mixes, they contain fertilizer and kill carnivores.

Correct mix:

• 50% peat
  
  

• 50% perlite
  (or long-fiber sphagnum + perlite)
  
  

No compost • No manure • No Miracle-Gro • No fertilizer of any kind

Temperature

Hardy outdoors in most climates:

• Summer: 70–95°F
  
  

• Winter dormancy: 30–45°F
  
  

• Frost tolerant to around USDA Zone 5 with mulch
  
  

Southern varieties tolerate heat well, but all benefit from full winter dormancy.

Dormancy (very important)

Sarracenia MUST sleep each winter or they slowly die.

Dormancy behavior:

• pitchers turn brown and die back
  
  

• new growth waits until spring
  
  

• do NOT assume this means the plant is unhealthy
  
  

Dormancy period:

• ~3–4 months
  
  

• naturally triggered by shorter days and cooler temperatures
  
  

Leave outdoors year-round unless below freezing for long stretches.

Feeding

Do not hand-feed meat.

The plant catches plenty of insects outdoors.

Inside?

• Place outdoors weekly
  
  

• OR add occasional freeze-dried bloodworms or crickets (sparingly)
  
  

Never fertilize the soil.

Trimming

Remove dead pitchers in winter/spring ONLY.
This prevents mold and gives room for new growth.

 Repotting

Every 1–2 years into fresh peat/perlite

Best season:

• late winter
  
  

• early spring
  (before growth begins)
  
  

Repot into:

• tall pots (deep root system)
  
  

• plastic pots preferred
  
  

• keep drainage holes
  
  

•  Flowers

Large, dramatic spring flowers attract native pollinators.
Seeds may produce unique hybrids.

Do not expect identical offspring, even same species seed vary dramatically.

Best Locations

• full-sun patios
  
  

• bog planters
  
  

• pond edge plantings
  
  

• rain gardens
  
  

• container bogs
  
  

• south-facing decks
  
  

• sunny porches
  
  

Avoid:

• shade
  
  

• dry gardens
  
  

• traditional potting benches under tree cover
  
  

Quick Placement Rules

✔ Full sun
✔ Outdoors
✔ Feet wet
✔ No fertilizer
✔ Winter cold OK
✔ Pure water

✘ Tap water
✘ Houseplant care
✘ Shade
✘ Soil with additives
✘ Indoor windowsills

Notable Species 

• Sarracenia leucophylla – tall white crowns, late season pitchers, stunning coloration
  
  

• S. purpurea – low rosettes, hardy northern species, deep winter color
  
  

• S. minor – hooded pitchers with “windows,” incredible trapping design
  
  

• S. flava – classic tall “yellow pitcher,” spring flush
  
  

Hybridization is extremely common, so visual traits may vary.

Winter Storage (if needed)

If your area drops below 20°F regularly:

• keep outdoors
  
  

• mulch heavily
  
  

• OR overwinter in unheated garage
  
  

• minimal watering, still moist
  
  

Cold = good
Dry = death

⚠ Common Problems

Brown pitchers in fall?

Totally normal dormancy.

Mushy crown?

Overheated + stagnant water. Provide airflow.

Green, floppy leaves?

Insufficient sun.

Insects inside?

Good. That’s the point.